Wine's world

We are always delighted to learn that a producer has obtained organic certification for his vineyard, a guarantee of meticulous cultivation and practices, since the extra care and attention in the vineyard and cellar can only be beneficial to the final quality of the wine.

On the other hand, we are more circumspect when it comes to claims for biodynamic viticulture based on the agricultural principles (influence of lunar rhythms) laid down in the 1920s by the anthroposophist Rudolf Steiner.

Researchers at the University of Changins (Switzerland, canton of Vaud) have just published the results of 5 years of biodynamic cultivation (using 500 horn dung and 501 horn silica preparations) on a plot of Chasselas grapes, with reference to a control plot grown simply organically.

Their conclusions are clear: 'Analysis of soil physical properties, including bulk density, water holding capacity, structural stability and macropore volume, revealed no significant differences between biodynamic and control treatments over the study period'.

With a question mark hanging over their conclusions: 'The lack of consistent and significant benefits of biodynamic preparations in our study raises questions about the added value of these practices, especially given the higher production costs associated with biodynamic farming, which are 10-15 % higher than those of organic production'.

Further studies will soon be published to confirm or refute this finding. To be continued...

Mouton-Rothschild has just unveiled the label for its new 2022 vintage.

Designed by French artist Gérard Garouste, it celebrates the centenary of the arrival of Baron Philippe de Rothschild (1902-1988) at Château Mouton-Rothschild.

It was in 1922 that the de Rothschild family decided to entrust Philippe, then aged 22, with the direction and management of Château Mouton-Rothschild. He became totally involved, imposing from 2024 that bottling, which until then had been the responsibility of the wine merchants, should be carried out at the Château, entirely under his own responsibility.

The label features a triptych of the ram (beyond its allusion to Mouton, french word for a sheep but which really means ‘little mountain’, the ram is a symbol of courage and willpower, as well as Baron Philippe's zodiac sign), the façade of the Mouton-Rothschild cellar and Baron Philippe.

La Revue du Vin de France (#686 December 2024) has published a very interesting study by Jérôme Baudouin about the evolution of Médoc estates classified in 1855.

At first glance, it seems clear that the cadastral surface areas of the Médoc's crus classés have increased enormously since 1855. Some striking examples as Lascombes (Margaux), which has grown from 7.2 hectares in 1855 to 120 hectares today, and more recently La Tour Carnet (Haut-Médoc), which has grown from 45 hectares in 1999 to 230 hectares today.

However, of the 60 crus classés, 14, nearly a quarter, have kept the same area of vines as in 1855:
- in Margaux : Dauzac, Pouget, Kirwan, Cantenac-Brown, Margaux
- in Saint-Julien : Lagrange, Beychevelle, Gruaud-Larose
- in Pauillac : d'Armailhac, Grand-Puy Ducasse, Grand-Puy Lacoste
- in Saint-Estèphe : Cos Labory, Calon-Ségur
- in Haut-Médoc : Cantemerle

et 6 have increased their surface area by less than 20% in 170 years:
- in Margaux : Rauzan-Gassies, d'Issan, Palmer
- in Saint-Julien : Branaire-Ducru
- in Pauillac : Lynch-Moussas, Pontet-Canet

Not to mention Château Dubignon, Margaux's 3rd Cru Classé, which has since disappeared, having been bought up and taken over by another 3rd Cru Classé, Château Malescot-Saint-Exupéry, in 1865.