Wine's world

The Hospices de Beaune auction held last Sunday attracted a large crowd but yielded mixed financial results (despite the triumphant comments appearing in the press):

• Overall, it was the third-best sale in history (nearly €19 million), behind that of 2023 (€23 million) and far from the record set in 2022 (€31 million).

• In terms of average price per unit (228-litrebarrel), whites and reds combined, the increase is only 4.6% compared to last year, while the 2025 vintage is already much more promising and publicised than the 2024 vintage was.

Under the dual impact of the summer drought and ongoing vineyard uprooting plans (Languedoc-Roussillon, Bordeaux, South-West, etc.), wine production for French appellations (AOP) in 2025 is close to the already low level in 2024 and well below the five-year average for 2020-2024.

Comparison between 2025 and the 2020-2024 average by wine-producing region (source: French Ministry of Agriculture):

• Up in two small wine-producing regions
   +43% in Jura, after several years of poor harvests, including 2024 (catastrophic frosts)
   +  9% in Savoie

• Average (between +5% and -5%) in Champagne, Corsica, Languedoc-Roussillon, Loire Valley

• Down in some major producing regions
   -  6% in Burgundy/Beaujolais
   -  7% in the South-East (Rhône and Provence)
   - 17% in Alsace
   - 18% in Bordeaux
   - 24% in the South-West (excluding Bordeaux)

NB. The apparent relative stability of Burgundy/Beaujolais masks marked disparities between departments, with Chablis showing a sharp increase (+45% compared to 2024) and Beaujolais a sharp decline (-32% compared to 2024).

What does it take to make a great wine?

Until now, a great wine was the result of a blend of factors: a great terroir, a favourable weather, a good team (winegrower, winemaker, oenologist, etc.) and a lot of hard work.

Today, it is essential to have a good influencer, who does not guarantee better quality in the bottle but is able to generate media hype and, as a result, notoriety... and substantial profits.

One example is the new ‘Lionel Messi Wine Collection’, with two Italian red wines (a Syrah from Sicily and a Primitivo from Puglia) and two Swiss wines (a white and a Pinot Rosé from Valais), a range modestly named ‘GOAT 10’ (Greatest Of All Time, 10 being Leo Messi's shirt number).

These four wines are sure to be very profitable promising as " they are not just a drink, but a masterpiece for our customers to collect", obviously in a “special limited edition” and with a design to match the product: ‘elegant, luxurious and enhanced with golden details, including the footballer's signature'.

But sorry, they're not for sale at our shop!